How Should a Leather Jacket Fit? A Guide for Women and Men

A leather jacket is one of the few pieces where fit really makes or breaks the look. Leather doesn't drape like wool or cotton, so a jacket that is slightly too big looks boxy, and one that is too small pulls across the back. Here's how a leather jacket should fit, what changes between women's and men's styles, and how to choose your size with confidence.

Should a leather jacket fit tight or loose?

A leather jacket should feel snug but not tight. You should be able to zip it up over a T-shirt or a light knit, move your arms freely and sit down without the jacket pulling across your back.

How snug depends on the style. A biker jacket is traditionally cut close to the body. A bomber is a little roomier, with a gathered waistband. Oversized styles are designed to be loose, so for those the shoulders and sleeves will sit differently on purpose.

The fit checklist: five points to check

1. Shoulders

The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone. If it hangs down your arm, the jacket is too big, unless it's an oversized or dropped-shoulder design. If it sits on top of your shoulder and you feel pressure there, it's too small. Shoulders are the hardest part to alter, so get them right first.

2. Chest and body

Zip the jacket up. It should close without straining, and the front shouldn't ripple or pull into creases that point towards the zip. You should be able to slide a flat hand inside the front, but not a fist.

3. Sleeves

With your arms relaxed by your sides, the sleeves should end around your wrist bone. Reach forward as if you were driving: the cuffs shouldn't ride far up your forearm. Slightly long is fine on biker styles, which often have zip cuffs, and leather tends to settle a little with wear.

4. Length

Most biker and bomber jackets end at or just below the top of your hips. Cropped styles end at the waist or above, and coats run longer. Choose the length for the outfit you have in mind: shorter lengths work well with high-rise trousers and dresses, while hip length suits most jeans.

5. Movement

Cross your arms, reach overhead and sit down. A little tension across the back is normal in a fitted leather jacket. Sharp pulling at the armholes or the zip is not.

How should a leather jacket fit a woman?

Women's leather jackets are usually shaped through the waist, with more room at the chest and a slightly narrower shoulder. When you try one on:

• check that the waist shaping sits at your natural waist, not above or below it;
• make sure the jacket closes comfortably over your chest without gaping between the teeth of the zip;
• decide how you'll wear it: a close fit over a fine knit for a sleek look, or a size up if you plan to layer a chunky sweater.

For a classic close fit, start with women's biker jackets. If you like a relaxed shape, try oversized leather jackets, where the extra room is part of the design.

How should a leather jacket fit a man?

Men's leather jackets tend to be straighter through the body. The main points are the same, with a few things to watch:

• the shoulder seam should line up with your shoulder, and the back should lie flat between your shoulder blades;
• a biker jacket should look trim with the zip closed, while a bomber should blouse slightly above the waistband;
• if you wear a hoodie under it most of the time, allow room for that layer when you choose your size.

Compare the cuts in men's biker jackets and men's leather bomber jackets. Not sure which style suits you? Our guide to biker vs bomber leather jackets explains the difference.

Does a leather jacket stretch?

Real leather softens and shapes itself to you with wear, especially at the elbows and across the back. It may feel a touch looser after a few weeks, but it won't change by a whole size. Faux leather generally keeps its original shape.

So choose the size that fits well today. Don't buy a jacket that is uncomfortably tight in the hope it will stretch.

How to find your size

1. Measure yourself. Use a soft tape to measure your chest at the fullest point, your natural waist, your shoulders and your sleeve length. The Size Guide shows how to take each measurement.
2. Measure a jacket you love. Lay it flat and measure across the chest from armpit to armpit, the shoulder width and the sleeve length. Compare those numbers with the size chart.
3. Think about layers. If you'll wear the jacket over thick knits in winter, allow a little extra room through the chest and arms.
4. Check the custom option. On styles that offer a Custom Size, you can enter your own measurements on the product page instead of choosing a standard size.

If you're between sizes and want to layer, the larger size is usually the safer choice. If you want a sharp, close fit over light layers, the smaller one usually is.

Common fit problems and quick fixes

• Sleeves slightly long: on many biker styles this is part of the look. A tailor experienced with leather can shorten sleeves on some jackets.
• Too tight at the armholes: this usually means you need the next size up. Armholes are difficult to alter.
• Gaping at the back of the collar: the jacket may be too big in the shoulders.
• Riding up when you sit: the body may be too short for your torso. Try a longer style or one of our women's leather coats.

FAQs

Should I size up in a leather jacket?

Only if you plan to wear thick layers underneath or you want a relaxed look. Otherwise, choose the size that fits your shoulders and chest comfortably over a light layer.

Can a leather jacket be tailored?

Some alterations, such as shortening sleeves, can be done by a tailor experienced with leather. Changes to the shoulders and armholes are much harder, so get those right when you buy.

How do I know if my leather jacket is too small?

If the zip strains, the shoulder seams sit inside your shoulder bones or you can't cross your arms comfortably, the jacket is too small.

What if the jacket doesn't fit when it arrives?

You have 30 days after receiving your jacket to request a return. When it arrives, try it on indoors over the layers you normally wear, and keep the tags on and the original packaging until you decide: returns must be unworn, with tags, in their original packaging. Custom Size orders can't be returned. See our Refund policy.